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Strange High Idle |
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| Vehicle: 1994 Ford Tempo |
I am checking out this Tempo. I checked codes for KOEO, no codes, KOER, 411, and 412, unable to
control idle at either hi or lo limit.
1. Fuel press. was at 45 - 55 psi. ok
2. Tested MAF sensor, should be at 1 volt at idle, it was 2.013 volts. This goes down when I remove the air tube to sensor and Throttle body.
3. Tested Eng. coolant sensor and Air Charge Sensor; both seem to do their jobs. e.g. ohms changes
when the temperature changes. According to the book, they are both fairly in range.
4.Checked timing, replaced Dist.cap, ign. wires, plugs and rotor.
5. Tried an engine relearn process; idle stay down for a while until I opened up the throttle! Then its
high idle again!!
6. Checked for vacuum leaks, bad hoses, dirty throttle valves, bad battery connections and cleaned
them!!
7. Checked problem at Idle air bypass valve. I replaced it. Resistance was 6 to 14 ohms.
8. I cleaned the ground wires and cables. I replaced PCV valve. |
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COMMENT BY: ru4el4 |
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| 48 | |
COMMENT DATE: Jul. 26, 9:47 PM |
QUALIFICATIONS: Site Rank: 21 |
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Hello again, Today, I broke out the Breakout Box to measure each of the voltages and test the circuits.
With the engine running at the high idle, voltage sits at 11.4 v. When I open the throttle all the way the voltage
drops to 8.0 v.
I used Alldata info to check the ohms and continuity of MAF and IAC wiring. All ok.
I did plug the Carbon Canister solenoid hose to see if it affected idle, no good.
I recalled what a fellow mechanic told me about (hopefully) relearning the IAC, with the engine running, I WOT the engine
and slowly let off of it. Surprisingly enough, this worked!! At least as long as you drive the car immediately afterwards.
The idle is now down to 800 rpm. The engine is not overheating. When you turn the car off and later restart again
you get the 2500 rpm again. I find that if I fast goose the throttle to the floor and release this brings it back to normal.
Any ideas? Otherwise, I told my friend to follow this procedure to be able to drive this car without sucking up all the
gas. I tried to substitute another IAC valve, but no good. I'm still looking. |
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COMMENT BY: ru4el4 |
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| 48 | |
COMMENT DATE: Aug. 6, 1:09 AM |
QUALIFICATIONS: Site Rank: 21 |
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To Jarrettbro, were you able to get any codes from the engine? One of the devices I use is a Sunpro Code reader for Fords.
At the time I bought it, $35.00. Just plug it in the EEC-IV plugs and turn on the key for the Key On Engine Off test.
Have a Chilton Total Car Care Manual or a Haynes Manual for your car. You may need to go online for the triple digit codes and
their meanings. In the manuals, they show you how and where to hook up the tester. Also it will show you how to use a
analog voltmeter to read the codes. Just count the needle sweeps.
To Joe Allen, I have suggested the coolant temp sensor, to my friend. When I tested it, it did react in what seems the
proper way to temperature changes. Ohms and voltage changing with temp. differences. Just for the [Edited] of it we will
change it to see if it was a matter of calibration.
What we do to drop the idle is quickly stomp the gas pedal and either slowly let off of it or quickly release it. This drops
the idle on this vehicle. What we have discovered is the grommet, a nylon rubber donut that goes on the TV linkage to the transmission to help it shift, was gone. We replaced it. Trans. shifts better. When he drives the car now, after
3 or 5 minutes the idles drops down by itself. I would call this a slow relearn problem. |
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COMMENT BY: joe allen |
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| 90 | |
COMMENT DATE: Aug. 6, 1:59 PM |
QUALIFICATIONS: ASE Certified Site Rank: 1 |
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COMMENT BY: joe allen |
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| 90 | |
COMMENT DATE: Aug. 10, 5:09 PM |
QUALIFICATIONS: ASE Certified Site Rank: 1 |
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COMMENT BY: joe allen |
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| 90 | |
COMMENT DATE: Aug. 19, 1:26 PM |
QUALIFICATIONS: ASE Certified Site Rank: 1 |
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